Island Peak Climbing
Island Peak (6,189 m)
Autumn & Spring
- Island Peak Climbing; the best peak to begin mountaineering.
- A short tour of the world heritage sites of Kathmandu city.
- Flight to Lukla with a panoramic view of the mountain region.
- Encounter unique terrain with a dramatic scenery in the Everest region.
- Come across the Sherpa community and experience the way of their life.
- Tengboche Monastery, one of the Tibetan Buddhist Monasteries at a high altitude.
- Witness the peaks above 7,000 m; Mt. Everest Makalu, Lhotse, Makalu, and others.
- Trekking in the wilderness of Sagarmatha National Park.
Nepal is a country where the pristine beauty of the Himalayas enchants every humankind. Lots of climbers and trekkers around the world come to explore the mountain regions of Nepal. There are 8 eight-thousanders (above 8,000 m from sea level) in the nation, among other 14.
If you have dreamt of climbing the adventurous trails of mountains, then you can begin climbing peaks above 5,000 m. Among many of the peaks, the Island peak is the one that suits beginner and intermediate climbers.
Island peak is situated in the Eastern part of Nepal within Sagarmatha National Park. Formerly, It was known as Imja Tse. The peak stands 6,189 m tall and looks like an island surrounded by a sea of ice when viewed from Dingboche. Due to this, members of the British Mount Everest Expedition named Imja Tse as ‘Island Peak’ in 1953. It was renamed again as ‘Imja Tse’ in 1983.
However, Imja Tse is widely known as Island Peak. A British Expedition first attempted the summit of Island Peak as a practice session in 1953. It was the southwest section of the peak. Later on, they went on to summit Mt. Everest.
There are crevasses(a deep open crack) en route to the summit of Island Peak. As a result, mountaineers trying to summit the peak had to return without accomplishment. Therefore, in April 2009, the Nepal Mountaineering Association entrusted instructors to install ladders over crevasses. Because of this, the climb to the summit has become possible for the successful attempt.
Initiating the journey, the flight takes off to Lukla. Lukla is the entrance of treks and mountaineering to the Everest region. The trail encompasses stony and rocky pathways with stunning views of mountain ranges in the Khumbu region. The friendly hospitality of the Sherpa people is heartwarming. With well acclimatized, the journey leads to the summit of the Island Peak. During the summit, you get to learn trekking and climbing skills from the professionals.
Island Peak Climbing is less technical but physically challenging. It is the finest peak to climb if you intend to summit peaks above 6,000 m. So, Island Peak is the perfect peak for beginner and intermediate climbers.
The trail to the summit of Island Peak Climbing is an amazing experience to cherish for life. The views of other mountain giants such as Mt. Everest, Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Nuptse, and so on are exceptional. Traveling across lush green valleys, pristine rivers, glaciers, snowcapped mountains, and many more throughout the quest to the summit are worth it.
- Day 1: Kathmandu Arrival
- Day 2: Sightseeing and Preparation (or Spare Day)
- Day 3: Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, then trek to Phakding
- Day 4: Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar
- Day 5: Acclimatization Day
- Day 6: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tengboche
- Day 7: Trek from Tengboche to Dingboche
- Day 8: Trek from Dingboche to Chhukung
- Day 9: Acclimatization Day
- Day 10: Trek from Chhukung to Island Peak Base Camp and Pre-climb training
- Day 11: Island Peak Base Camp to Island Peak Summit, back to Base Camp
- Day 12: Contingency Day
- Day 13: Trek from Island Base Camp to Pangboche
- Day 14: Trek from Pangboche to Namche Bazaar
- Day 15: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla
- Day 16: Flight back to Kathmandu
- Day 17: Final Departure
Day 1: Kathmandu Arrival
Upon arrival at the Tribhuvan International Airport, our airport representative will be with your name card. You’ll be transferred in a vehicle to a hotel in Thamel. Register into the hotel and take a bit of rest.
Thamel is the tourist hub in the capital. After resting for a while, you can stroll around Thamel. Various restaurants, cafes, and pubs are available to enjoy in your leisure time. There are local shops that sell hand-crafted products. You can buy some of them as a keepsake. It is satisfying to take a walk around the city.
There will be a pre-meeting about the expedition in the evening. You can have queries and information on the journey to Island peak. Thereafter, a welcome dinner will be served as your meal for the night.
Overnight in a hotel in Kathmandu.
Day 2: Sightseeing and Preparation (or Spare Day)
Kathmandu is rich in cultural and religious values. Diverse ethnic groups are the inhabitants of the city. Most of the religious sites are enlisted in the world heritage sites. When you have come to the city, grab the opportunity to explore the heritage sites.
It’s not possible to visit all the world heritage sites in Kathmandu. So, our officials will accompany you to a few of them. After having breakfast, get ready for a short excursion in the city.
The first destination will be the Pashupatinath temple. It lies at the heart of Kathmandu. It is a holy place of Hindu devotees consisting of ancient temples, idols, and inscriptions with a history in it. Snapping photos of the main temple is strictly prohibited. The next destination, Bouddhanath Stupa, is situated 10 minute’s ride away.
Boudhanath Stupa is the sacred place of Buddhist devotees. It is the largest stupa in the world. It has its own unique beauty. The vibe around the stupa is pleasant in such a way that you find yourself with calmness and happiness,
After a day’s excursion in Kathmandu, you’ll be transferred to the hotel. You’ll have time to prepare, buy, or rent gear for the journey ahead.
Overnight in a hotel in Kathmandu.
Day 3: Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, then trek to Phakding
It’s time to leave Kathmandu and initiate the journey to Lukla as the first step of the Island Peak climbing. Lukla is the gateway to many treks in the Everest region.
Our representative will guide you to the domestic terminal of the airport. The flight offers a scenic view of verdant landscapes, rivers, winding roads, and mountain ranges. After half an hour of flight, it lands at the Tenzing Hilary airport in Lukla. Lukla is a small town providing varieties of services to tourists and trekkers.
The team that will guide you throughout the expedition awaits you in Lukla. Shortly after, the quest starts with an easy and short trail. Walking past the rocky and stony route, you make your way down to Cheplum. From this point, the glimpse of Mt. Khumbila is splendid. Moving further ahead, the walk continues alongside Dudh Koshi River. Thereafter, with an ascend, you reach Phakding.
Overnight in Phakding.
Day 4: Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar
The trail to Namche Bazaar is a little bit tough. The magnificent trail via uneven landscapes, riverbanks, suspension bridges, and small villages is exciting.
After leaving Phakding, the route ahead is less uneven in the beginning. You attain altitude slowly. In the end, the trek is tough attaining higher altitude while getting close to Namche Bazaar.
The trek begins early in the morning. You advance to the other side of the valley, crossing a suspension bridge. Hiking through the wilderness, you head to Benkar and walk alongside Dudh Koshi River. With the continuous hike, the marvelous view of mountains above 6,000 m comes into view.
Soon after, you arrive at Sagarmatha National park at Jorsale. Now it’s time for the last push to Namche. Along the way, a glance of Mt. Everest can be seen for the first time. And thus, you reach Namche Bazaar. During the trek, you pass through counters which require entry permits.
Overnight in Namche Bazaar.
Day 5: Acclimatization Day
Namche Bazaar is a town of Sherpa Community as an administrative hub in the Khumbu region. It is the gateway to treks and climbings in the Everest region. Consequently, the town has become a busy hub due to flourishing tourism.
Acclimatization is a must while trekking in higher altitudes. Due to the presence of less oxygen at high altitudes, our body needs time to adapt to its surroundings. A quick ascend to a higher altitude leads to altitude sickness. Sometimes you can be the victim of cerebral and pulmonary edema in serious cases. Therefore, the day will be spent in Namche Bazaar with a short hike nearby.
After having breakfast, you make your way up to Hotel Everest View (3,880 m) as part of acclimatization. It is one of the hotels at high altitudes. The panoramic view of mountain ranges from the hotel is overwhelming. The hotel offers bars and restaurants, free wifi, a laundry facility, etc. After spending some time in the hotel, you’ll return to your stay by walking through the same pathways.
Instead of hiking to Hotel Everest View, you can stroll around in its vicinity.
Overnight in Namche Bazaar.
Day 6: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tengboche
It’s time to leave Namche Bazaar and head out to Tengboche. The trail is exhausting because of irregular and rocky pathways. Initially, the trail leads through a little descent route and ascends more later on.
You start your trek by advancing alongside the valley. You hike past Kyanjum with an enchanting view of the rhododendron forest. After an easy hike, the route leads to Phungi Thenga. The trek becomes more arduous beyond Phungi Thenga. On continuing the trek, you head to Tengboche with the majestic sight of Mt. Everest, Ama Dablam, Lhotse, and Nuptse.
If you prefer roaming around after reaching Tengboche Monastery. Then, Tengboche Monastery is the best destination to explore. The monastery is a Tibetan Buddhist Monastery well known as Dawa Choling Gompa. It is the largest Gompa in the Khumba region.
Overnight in Tengboche.
Day 7: Trek from Tengboche to Dingboche
The trek from Tengboche to Dingboche is rejuvenating. The fascinating thing about the trek is that you get to witness the beauty of the glacier river and cladded mountains. Hike through Pangboche village, which is a base camp to Mt. Ama Dablam.
You start the trek with a descent to Deboche via a forest trail. Afterward, you attain elevation and pass along a wall inscribed with stone. Soon enough, you head to Pangboche village crossing a suspension bridge. Mt. Ama Dablam can be seen close by from the village.
With the continuous hike, the route gains altitude offering astonishing views of mountain ranges. Thereafter, you reach Shomare village. It is the last village before reaching Dingboche. Moving ahead, you advance to the Dingboche crossing suspension bridge.
Overnight in Dingboche.
Day 8: Trek from Dingboche to Chhukung
The trail to Chhukung from Dingboche is an easy trek. You start by descending to the valley alongside the river. The route ahead is uneven and rocky.
Moving further, the fascinating view of Ama Dablam can be seen at the back. After a brisk hike, the pristine view of Lhotse and Nuptse stuns your eyes. Along the way, you come to Lhotse South Face Memorial. The memorial is made in the memory of climbers who died on the way to the summit. You leave behind the Memorial walking beside the river and reach Chhukung. Chhukung is a small village with few teahouses.
Overnight in Chhukung.
Day 9: Acclimatization Day
As mentioned earlier, acclimatization day is necessary to cope with the increasing altitude. Our body needs to adapt to the surrounding atmosphere at high altitudes and thus prevent altitude sickness.
To get familiar with the increasing altitude, a trek to Chhukung Ri is the best option. Chhukung Ri is a large hill which is situated north of Chhukung. After 3-4 hours of hike, you arrive at the top of the hill. The eye-catching view of Island Peak, Lhotse, and other mountains is amazing. You can stay for half an hour and return to Chhukung.
In the evening, there will be a briefing and preparation for the peak climbing with the team.
Overnight in Chhukung.
Day 10: Trek from Chhukung to Island Peak Base Camp and Pre-climb training
The trail leading to Island Peak Base Camp is a rocky and steep uphill climb. You get the opportunity to observe the views of mountains and glaciers during the trek. You take off from Chhukung and ascend ahead. You go through Lhotse and Imja glacier. On resuming the trek, you advance with glorious views of peaks. After a short hike, you reach Island Peak Base Camp.
You can leave your belongings and have lunch on the base camp. You’ll be staying in a single-person tent which the team will there arrange before your arrival. Pre-climbing training will be initiated shortly after lunch. Professionals will guide you through training rappelling and belaying skills. During the training, you get used to ice axes, ascenders, harnesses, karabiners, and so on.
Island Peak Climbing is perfect for beginners. No technical skill and prior peak climbing experience are required. However, physical fitness is necessary, along with a strong determination to climb the summit.
After completing the training, it’s mandatory to sleep early tonight. This is because peak climbing is done early after midnight the next day.
Overnight in the Island Peak base camp in a tent.
Day 11: Island Peak Base Camp to Island Peak Summit, back to Base Camp
Clouds and a strong breeze make it difficult during the afternoon. So the quest starts early, after 2 am. The climb to the summit takes a long day. You need to carry a packed lunch and start the trek.
You head out of the base camp and reach the high camp. With a snowy and icy trail, you arrive at Crampon Point. That indicates you need to wear crampons from here onwards. The team will be tied to a man-rope for safe climbing above 5,700 m altitude from sea level.
The route guides you to the base of Imja Glacier through a narrow ridge. You can enjoy the breathtaking view of Mt. Makalu, Baruntsee, and Mera peak from the glacier. Soon enough, a vertical climb is the toughest of all. With the help of anchors, you climb up in a fixed line. Stay alert at all times. Thereafter, you walk past one or two crevasses over the installed ladders and reach the Island Peak summit.
The challenges and hurdles that you have come along the journey pay off today. Standing at the top of Island Peak is worth it. The moment creates perfect happiness and the proud feeling you have been longing for. Embrace the moment and enjoy your accomplishment.
With a proud feeling, it’s time to head down to the base camp, following through the same route. Be aware of your footings while descending and stay alert at all times.
Overnight in the Base Camp in a tent .
Day 12: Contingency Day
Weather and climate are unpredictable at higher altitudes. Continuing the climb during bad weather is not possible. So, this day is reserved as a contingency day in case of bad weather or other possible reasons. Therefore, it is better to reschedule if it’s impossible on day 11. However, if the quest goes as planned, there is no need for a contingency day.
Day 13: Trek from Island Base Camp to Pangboche
The trail throughout the journey is a memory to treasure for life. It’s time to head back to where you started your expedition.
After a sensational breakfast, it’s a long downhill hike to Pangboche village. This time it will be easier to navigate as the route follows the same paths. You come across the splendid views of mountain ranges, steep and rocky pathways, forests, and many more once again during the trek.
Overnight in Pangboche.
Day 14: Trek from Pangboche to Namche Bazaar
Today’s stop is the Namche Bazaar. So, you advance to Namche with a descent hike. Along the way, you walk past many villages like Deboche and Tengboche. Thriving through the trails of forest, river, and suspension bridges, you arrive at Namche Bazaar.
The route back is quite a short trek. You’ll have spare time to spend. Explore around the town. You can visit restaurants, cafes, and bars while enjoying your accomplishment.
Overnight in Namche Bazaar.
Day 15: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla
There are checkpoints while trekking back to Lukla. So, be sure to keep your entry permits safe. Follow the route and descend through stone steps. With a heavy heart, take a peek at Mt. Everest for the final time.
After a hike down to stony steps and dusty routes, while crossing suspension bridges, you advance to Phakding. Soon enough, you arrive at Lukla, passing through small villages with a magnificent view of mountain ranges,
Overnight in a lodge at Lukla.
Day 16: Flight back to Kathmandu
The Island Peak expedition has finally ended. Bid farewell to the giant mountains, lavish green forests, rivers, glaciers, and adventurous trails.
Early in the morning, the flight takes off to Kathmandu with an aerial perspective of valleys, peaks, rivers, and many more. Our personel will accompany you to the hotel after your landing at the airport. Check in to the hotel and freshen up. You’ll be served a typical Nepali cuisine as a farewell dinner.
Overnight in Kathmandu.
Day 17: Final Departure
The journey has come to its end. You will be escorted to the International Airport in Kathmandu for the flight back home. Hope you had a great time and wish you to visit us again.
What is included in Island Peak Climbing
- Road transportation as per Itinerary
- Domestic flight
- An experienced and English-speaking Guide
- Entry Permits
- First Aid Tools
- 2 nights stay in Kathmandu
- Confirm booking
What is Excluded
- Personal Expense
- Gear for trekking
- Any kinds of drinks
- Tips to guide and porter
- Travel Insurance
- Emergency Evacuation
- Nepal Entry Visa Fee
- International Flight
Island Peak Climbing is achievable in every season except monsoon. Autumn and spring are the most promising seasons in mountaineering. A large number of mountaineers and trekkers increases during the peak season in the Everest region.
Autumn (September to November) is the most preferred season for the expedition. The trails in the Khumbu region are crowded with trekkers and climbers. The weather is stable, clear, and dry with fresh air. The attractive views of the mountain range out in the distance can be seen due to clear visibility. The only thing you miss during autumn is the absence of blooming green vegetation and flowers.
Spring (March to May) is the ideal season to trek after autumn. The trails are busy with tourists because it is also the peak season. It is the rejuvenating season of blooming green vegetation and flowers. The weather is stable with a warm temperature. Diverse landscapes and mountain ranges far away are visible up in the clear sky.
Winter (December to February) is the off-season for the Island Peak Expedition. So, the trails in the Khumbu region are not crowded. The temperature during the season is extremely cold in higher altitudes. The quest to the summit is tough due to snowy trails and strong breeze. We would recommend winter only for professionals with proper gear and equipment.
Monsoon (June to August) is the worst season for the summit attempt. The weather is hot and humid with frequent rainfall. During this season, the trekking route becomes wet and slippery, and the skies are covered with rain clouds. It will be difficult to have a glance at mountain ranges out in the distance. However, the sky becomes clear after rainfall.
Gear and Equipment
- Climbing helmet
- Down suit
- Ice axe
- Lock carabiners
- Unlock carabiners
- Prusik loops
- Tape slings
- Sun cap
- Neck Gaiter
- UV protection sunglasses
- UV protection Glacier Glasses
- Fleece hat
- Woolen cap
- Snow goggle
- Thermo coat
- Mid-weight top
- Heavy top
- Fleece Jacket
- Mountaineering jacket
- Down jacket
- Windproof jacket
- Cotton tee for base camp
- Thin fleece gloves
- Wind stopper fleece gloves
- Heavy gloves
- Summit gloves
- Lightweight, long pants
- Mid-weight long pants
- Heavyweight pants
- Mountaineering pants
- Down Pants
- Waterproof pant
- Summit shoes
- Regular socks
- Summit socks
- Trekking shoes
- Camp boots
- Base camp slipper
- Wet tissue
- Multifunctional soap
- Garbage bag
- Duffle bags
- Waterproof large stuff sacks
- Waterproof small stuff sacks
- Day pack
- Water bottle
- Lip guard
- Emergency medical kit